A round surtout de table with rich ornamentation all around in the form of pointed arches entwined with grapevines, below which is a fully enclosing, unbroken garland of flowers and leaves. The surtout is borne by three protruding columns in the shape of mirrored sphinxes serving as the legs and above these an outer face decorated with a wineglass, vine leaves and musical instruments.
The surtout’s decorative scheme is a reference to Bacchus, or Dionysus, the god of wine – a fitting allusion, considering the function of this type of item.
Although table decorations had been customary for centuries, surtouts de table as we now know them were only introduced in France in the early nineteenth century, when a new form of dining became fashionable. Previously, food had been served in large dishes that were left on the table throughout the entire meal. Around 1810, however, the fashion changed to service à la Russe, which meant that food was served in courses. This created a great deal of space on the table for opulent decorations and ornaments. With their new, more prominent role, table ornaments grew increasingly extravagant. Surtouts the table were a perfect answer to the newly vacated table space, as they could hold table decorations, baskets of bread, sweetmeats, flower arrangements and candlesticks.
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